The church steeple you see above is the Oude Kerk, the oldest church in Amsterdam. We will see it up close shortly. But notice the stubby tower to the left. This is the Schreiers Toren (Wailing Tower) with quite a history of its own. Our route will take us along the narrow canal straight ahead.
During the middle ages the city was partly surrounded by a brick, defensive wall. The Schreiers Toren is the only 'tower' that survived the subsequent demolitions. You can see part of the wall and this tower in the map above. To the left of the tower is the Geldersegracht with its quay made with numerous bricks dating back at least five hundred years. Further up that canal is De Waard, one of several 'ports' or gates into the city. It still stands but is now completely surrounded by land. Since the city wall was torn down, this gate has been used for several other purposes and one was as weighing station for goods brought to the new market place (hence the Waard and Nieuwe Markt).
The Schreiers Toren seems low, but you have to remember that the base was originally at water level. The name 'Wailing Tower' originates from the days when the wives of sailors would come here to say farewell to their loved ones departing for long journeys at sea.

One such trip was by Henry Hudson, who was sent by the Dutch East India Company to find a passage through North America. He traveled up the Hudson River from Nieuw Amsterdam (New York). A plaque mounted on the Schreiers Toren commemorates his departure from this point 400 years ago.

"From this ancient "Tower of Tears" erected 1482 A.D. Henry Hudson set sail April 4th 1609 on the vessel "Half Moon". On that voyage of discovery destined to bring him to the harbor of New York and the Hudson River.

This memorial erected September 1927 by the Greenwich Village Historical Society of New York City, USA.

Catherin Parker Clivette, Founder

Samilla Jameson Heinzmann Sculptor"

1. We are now at the start of the walk. It is the Oudezijds Kolk (Old Side Pond), one of the oldest little canals in Amsterdam. By now you will have seen some of the thousands of bicycles here. Also note the tall windows to the right. That is the back of the St. Nicolaas Church, the largest Catholic church in old Amsterdam. (note 1)
By the way, Saint Nicolaas is revered in the Netherlands not only because he was the patron saint for sailors, but also because he was the Spanish saint who, on his birthday, still comes to Holland every December 6th to bring presents to good children. He was a bit of predecessor to Santa Claus.

2. You are now standing on the Zeedijk (Sea Dike), the oldest known dike in Amsterdam. This was built before the defensive city-wall existed and as you look back from where you came, you can get an idea again how long ago it must have been when the waters lapped at your feet. Imagine seven hundred years ago when little fishing boats sailed right in front of you.
You can see the white capstan in the picture behind another parked bicycle.

Notice the two beer signs in the picture above. The one to the left is for Amstel bier and the right for Heineken bier. You will see numerous signs like this because bars are everwhere. However, you will see lots of red Heineken signs, not just the usual green. More about this on the detour part of our walk. Below is a shot looking back after you round the bend that you see in the distance. (link 4)

2A. Instead of going south along the Zeedijk, let's go north. A few feet takes you to Olofsteeg to the left. Keep this in mind; we will come back to this alley later. But continue along Zeedijk until you come to one of the two oldest wooden house in Amsterdam. It is now another bar.
Do you see the red Heineken sign above the door? It has a red star in the center, something that was deleted during the cold war era because it was deemed to be associated with communism.
Continue a little further north on Zeedijk and you will see a chapel that was built between 1440 and 1450. It is St. Olofskapel but is now part of a hotel. "Who was St. Olof?" you should ask. Actually the saint's name was St. Odulphus and he was the safe keeper of the Dutch dikes (and I don't mean the female type). You are now near the edge of the old port where three hundred years ago sailors would arrive and depart for all corners of the globe.

Speaking of beer. A couple doors to the right is the bright orange tavern 'Het Elfde Gebod' (the eleventh prayer), an unlikely name for a bar. But if the time is right, go inside and taste one of seven Belgium beers on tap; and if you don't like those they have as many at sixty brews in bottles.

Oh, one more thought about beer. In Europe it served not icy cold; but you probably knew that already!

Some refer to this as 'Little Venice' because you can see the houses rising right out of the water with no streets. It is also a three way intersection of canals. Take a break and enjoy a refreshment, like others here.

In the distance you can see the tall yellow house. We will be there when we continue our walk and cross the bridge in this picture.

 

But when you are on the bridge, look to your left and you will see the little bridge on the Zeedijk and the St. Nicolas Church. Now imagine being here a little over a hundred years ago. You can see the garbage in the canal and the laundry hanging from the houses where the working class lived, but no church.

The bridge you are standing on crosses from the Oudezijds Voorburgwal to the Oudezijds Achterburgwal. These names go back many years when there was an 'Old side' with a 'Front city wall' and a 'Hind city wall'. So much for simple Dutch names. Notice the brick house with the gabled roof on the corner.
I have marked the detailed map with 2B.

If you elected to just continue our described walk, the picture below is what you should see. A leaning wall of the Asian restaurant on the corner of Stormsteeg. You are now in the Chinatown of Amsterdam.

Even if you don't go all the way to the Waard, take a look at the Bhuddist temple another 70 yards on Zeedijk. The temple can be visited (no fee) most days from noon to 5pm. (link 5)

4. You are now at the Oudezijds Voorburgwal, the same one that you saw earlier if you took the little detour. Before you cross this second bridge, go left a ways to see the Oude Kerk from across the canal. This is the oldest known building in Amsterdam. For some details about visiting the church go to link number six.
History of the Old Church; by Warnar Moll 2002.

The oldest remains of Amsterdam, the ruins of the famous "van Aemstel Castle" (destroyed anno 1204), have been digged up recently (november 2002) near the Dirk van Hasseltsteeg.
Though, the Old Church is an unique location being one of the oldest places in Amsterdam (fundaments dated from the year 1250). It is established in the reputated "redlight district", the "Walletjes".

In the beginning, the place in front of the Church was a landing-stage for Ships alongside the "Bierkaai" and "Groenmarkt" (Beer- and Foodmarket). Here the sailors and boatsman shipped their products and relaxed themselves. Actually, the Old Church always has been a meeting point to ordinary people for their "gossip".

The beautiful light through the high windows of the Church, the medieval church furnishing, gravestones, the magnificent painted wooden vaults, create an unique atmosphere and give away something of the buildings' unique history.
The Oude Kerk has been build in different phases and ages and has a total area of 4000 m2. The tombstones set into the floor and the tombs of Dutch naval heroes, including Jacob van Heemskerck, are particularly fine.
Among the graves in the church "more than 10000 in all" is that of Rembrandt’s first wife,Saskia van Uylenburgh. A memorial tablet commemorates another celebrity who is buried in the church. He is Kiliaen van Rensselaer, one of the Dutch founders of the city that is now New York. The paintings on the ceiling and the wooden statues in the roof were added in the second half of the XVth and the early XVIth century. Three stained glass windows in the Lady Chapel date from 1555. The two large windows were made by Digman Meynaert after a design by Lambert van Noort; the smaller window depicting the Death of the Virgin is by Dirck Crabeth. In the choir stalls there are still misericordes from Catholic times, decorated with scenes illustrating proverbs and sayings. All that remains of the Holy Sepulchre is the fine canopy. A stained glass window by Jan van Bronckhorst in the choir aisle commemorates the Treaty of Münster (1648). The coat of arms of the mayors of the city between 1578 and 1800 appear in the two windows on either side of the choir aisle. In 1681 the choir was closed off with a brass rood screen. . . . . (link 6)

One of those 'secret churches' can be visited along this canal. It is called "Our-Lord-in-the-Attic" and is really remarkable to see. It is the fifth house to your right after crossing the bridge. I have marked it 4A on the detailed map. (link 7)

 

 

 

5. We continue our walk along this canal towards the Oude Kerk. You are now in the Red Light district. Just a word of caution: The 'ladies' don't like to have their picture taken and may send their 'man' to reprimand you should you ignore this. However, don't be too intimidated. Most people you see during the day are tourists just like you. Take a quick look around the corner where you will find a statue in honor of these 'ladies' and a hand caressing breasts cemented in the street.

6A. I have added this section for those interested in seeing more of the Red Light district. I am sure you have noticed the bars and shops with sex advertising and perhaps some ladies in the windows. The Old Church is surrounded by them. Keep in mind that a few hundred years ago this was a busy trading center with sailors and merchants coming from far away. Prostitution was very common then as it is now. There is even a PIC (Prostitution Information Center) just across the street from the back of the church. Notice the red sign top left corner. The Wallenwinkel means this is 'the store of the Walls', the name of this district as the Dutch know it.

As the map shows, take a walk around the church starting at the east side. The contrast between the two sides of this street is awesome. On one side the Old Church and along the other side lots of doors with red curtains. During the day you might see a lady or two, but in the evening this is a thriving location.
Most or all of these places are rented and, of course, prime spots such as these are expensive.
As you continue around the church you will see some not so 'nice'.

There is a museum about hash, marihuana and hemp. There is even a museum showing the develpment of condoms.

If you are not too shy, go in and have a look. You don't have to buy anything.

 

6. At the back of the church you should turn into this short alley. It takes you to Warmoesstraat where you turn left.

If you have read the novel 'Until I Find You', by John Irving, you might remember that this was the street where young Jack Burns walked arm-in-arm with his mother and the two prostitudes as they went from the Oudekerk to the hotel Krasnapolski on De Dam.

We are doing the same route now.

A little further and you will see De Dam with its majestic palace and the Nieuwe Kerk (New Church). If you had continued along the canal you would have arrived at about this same spot.

Go ahead have your picture taken while sitting inside that wooden shoe. You wouldn't be the first tourist to do that.

7. The Dam is, of course, the main square in Amsterdam. The large building with its green copper top dates from 1655 when it was built as the city hall. It was converted in 1808 to serve as the royal palace. To your left is the Bijenkorf (Bee Hive), a large department store, and right is Hotel Krasnapolski. (link 8)
In the center of De Dam you should stop for a look at the National Monument, a stone pillar in memory of the victims of WWII.

We are heading for the north-west corner where you see the Nieuwe Kerk (New Church). Although called 'new', the church was started in 1408 because the Old Church was too small for the growing population. Since then the district we just passed through has been known as the Old and we are now entering the New.
Except for corronations of the royal families, the building is no longer used as a church. It is really an exhibit hall with rooms for special occasions and shows. Here you will also find a nice restaurant 't Nieuwe Kafe. This might be a good place for lunch.

Continue along the street between the church and the palace. This brings you to a mall, Magna Plaza. Again you should have a look inside and perhaps buy a amall momento of your trip. But you will have to carry it the rest of our walk.
Looking at this picture, turn right (north). You are now on the Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal.

Ok, I give in and will explain the meaning. Dutch, similar to German, combines words to make a longer one. So we are on the New-side (of the) Front-city-dike. Earlier we walked along the Old-side of the Front-city-dike and crossed a bridge at the Old-side of the Back-city-dike. Oh, skip it.

8. It is a busy street with lots of traffic, including the trams that are nice to use when you want to go the Rijksmuseum, for example, or if you get too tired along the way of this 'short' walk.
It is also a good way to get from the cruise ship terminal to other parts. Look for tram #25 or 26.

For more information about how to buy tickets and use them, go to this web site. (link 9)

9. When you walk through the alley above, you arrive at our first encounter with the Singel, the canal that surrounds the northern part of old Amsterdam. This wide bridge is a favorite hangout for those who like a bit of solitude and a refreshing drink. It is the Torensluisbrug (Tower-lock-bridge). If you go to the old map above, you might be able to figure out that this was another entrance into the city with a tower and a set of locks.

Multatuli was the pen name of Eduard Douwes Dekker, who, around 1860, wrote against the abuses of the colonization of Indonesia. Keep in mind that the Dutch colonies during the 17th and 18th century extended around the globe. This included Asia, South America, the Caribean and even Nieuw Amsterdam (New York).

10. This is the intersection with the Herengracht. Before you cross the bridge, have a look down this canal and consider taking a bit of a detour. If you turn right, you can walk to the next bridge and come back on the other side. Or, at that point, you can continue along the Herenstraat to the next canal, the Keisersgracht, and come back to the Leliegracht from there. You will see some beautiful old houses. This is where the rich merchants lived. At Keizersgracht 123 you can see de Huis-met-de-Hoofden. Now it your turn to translate.

Notice that most of these homes are quite narrow and tall. But they are very deep. The waterfront property was expensive, so the very rich had extra wide fronts. There is one house that is less than six feet wide. It is at Singel 7, and we will see it later on our walk.
Another one is not on our walk. It is known as the 'Mr Trip's Coachman's House'. See picture to the right.

The story is told that two brothers, Trip, who had made their fortune trading metals and ammunition, built a mansion along a canal south-east of De Dam. One day, one of them overheard their coachman exclaim, "If I only had a house as wide as my master's front door!" So they obliged and in about 1620 they built the little place across the canal from their mansion.

11. We continue along the Leliegracht until we come to the third canal, the Prinsengracht. The first thing you will see are the interesting gabled houses across the bridge. You can see the variety of architectural designs that were used.

 

Otherwise continue along the Prinsengracht to the large church on the corner. This is the Westerkerk.

The picture was taken from across the canal in order to show the tower on top. This is the Lange Jan (Long John) and at 279 ft is the tallest tower in Amsterdam. It is a popular Protestant church where in 1966 Princess (now Queen) Beatrix was married to Claus von Amsberg.

This is also the final resting place of Rembrandt van Rijn. (link 11)

Rembrandt, the artistic master of them all, did not know how to manage his money. When he was 50 years old, he had to sell his large house and furnishings and went into poverty living in the Jordaan. His last address was on the Rosengracht, a bit west from here. It is now a busy street that lost its canal and gained tram tracks.

Rembrandt died October 4, 1669, a poor man financially, but at peace, we hope.
At that time it was the custom to bury the dead in the closest church in the neighborhood. So here he lies somewhere in this church, in an unmarked grave, but not forgotten.

At the corner you can also see the statue of Anne Frank. Then if you are interested in some wine, beer or liquor shopping go further west on the Rosengracht. You will find a Gall & Gall store with a nice selection. At the next corner you can turn right and walk through the Jordaan or return to the Westerkerk.

13. As we stroll along, take a look into the streets to your left. The Jordaan was at one time a run-down neighborhood, then it was revitilized and now it is a favorite place to live. There are lively pubs, and people still adhere to the 'easy' life style with lots of singing and merryment at night.

But also notice the old style boats in the canal. Some look like they have been here for eons, others are more recent creations; many people call this their home. Indeed they are 'woonboten' (house boats).

You should visit at least one 'hofje'. The Jordaan has many, but across the canal you can quickly visit the Zon's Hofje (Sun's Courtyard). The address is Prinsengracht 159-171, just north of the bridge at Prinsenstraat. Look for a simple door way with a long passage towards the back. Go ahead, but be subdued, people live here in what used to be almshouses. The 'hofjes' date back to the 17th century when well-to-do folks would provide these dwellings to the poor.
This one originally belonged to a group of Mennonites who conducted their services in this courtyard. They also had a church here at one time called De Zon, so this one was referred to as 'The Little Sun". Later the name was changed to "De Arke Noach". Notice the plaque above the door at number 163-165. It shows animals entering Noahs Ark with a large sun overhead.

Go back and cross the bridge the way we came, turn right and continue along the west bank.

We continue along the Prinsengracht until we come to the next bridge and another cross canal the Bouwersgracht (Brewers Canal). In 2007 this was voted to be the most beautiful canal in Amsterdam.

The neighborhood across the water and to the west used to have several beer breweries and also the last gin (jenever) brewery De Ooievaar (Stork).

We make a right turn and cross the bridge. But wait, go onto the cross bridge and have a look back. This is one of the most scenic canal views of the day! See link 12 for a panoramic photo.

14. Several of the homes along this canal section have been converted from warehouses. Notice some of the double doors at street level. They were formerly for horse drawn carriages.
Also you may have noticed the beam and pulley sticking out of the gables. They were used to hoist furniture and other items to the upper floors. Remember how narrow the stairway was inside the A.F. House? Obviously this was the only way for a warehouse to operate, and you will see them all over town.
Continue along the Brouwersgracht (southside) two blocks and then cross the bridge to your left. As you do, look along the canal to the next bridge. It is for pedestrians only and is called the Melkmeisjesbrug (Milkmaid Bridge). This is the area where there used to be a milk market and one shop had posted a billboard outside with a picture of a milk maid. So . . ..

One block up the Heerenmarkt we turn right onto the Haarlemmerstraat. This is obviously a local shopping street with small shops of various kinds. It leads us to the Singel where we cross the bridge.

After crossing the busy intersection, continue straight. It is Nieuwedijk (New Dike). Take in the scene of a couple porn shops. It gives you another chance to learn about sex in a different light.

Don't be intimidated. You are perfectly safe from harassments, but hold onto your purse and camera.
At the Hasselaersteeg turn left. It is a narrow alley that takes you to the Prins Hendrikskade. It is shown in red on the map.

The pond to the left with tules is a 'kolk' . The dike is in the distance.
The puddles to the right would drain into ditches, then windmills were used to pump the water into the canals and rivers.