Bruges Walking Tour

Join us for a leisurely stroll along the canals, streets and alleys of this medieval city and enjoy the scenery of churches, beautiful buildings and courtyards while learning about their history.

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The Walk

Before you continue, you should look at the Tour Map and the Notes at the end of this web page. The map is interactive, meaning that you can click on any red number and it takes you to that section. There is also a pdf format that can be printed, if you so desire. It includes the map so you can carry this with you as you walk. Click here

In addition I have included a map of the harbor at Zeebrugge, the seaport, for those of you arriving by ferry or cruise ship and are interested in taking the train to Bruges. Those not interested in historical details, might skip the green text.

1. The train station

We have chosen the main train station of Bruges as the start of this walk for a couple reasons. Most tourists visiting Bruges come by train, bus or automobile and you will find a large parking area with reasonable rates just east of the station. Driving into town can be a nightmare; don't do it, there are virtually no parking spots and many streets are blocked off to vehicular traffic. Next to the train station is also the major bus stop for Bruges.
 
The station has recently been remodeled and you will note the large mural inside.
Just outside the station is the border of the old and newer city and this provides us with a good introduction to the origin of Bruges (or Brugge, the Flemish name that is still valid and used by most citizens). See note about the photos.
From the 'Stationplein' cross the main street (Buiten Begijnenvest) and, after you are past the water way, make a right turn. This path is the Begijnenvest and we will learn shortly why it is called that. However, you will note that the earthen ridge and the water channel next to it remind one of a rampart and moat. And that is exactly what it used to be. The "vest" surrounds most of the city including a section with some windmills to the north-east.

Archeologists have found indications that Bruges was the site of a Roman fortress or at least an outpost. Defensive lines had been set up to protect them from the marauding Franks. After the decline of the Roman Empire the Franks inhabited the area but not much is know about them until about the year 800 when Baldwin I, a local chieftain, abducted Judith the daughter of Charles the Bald, King of West Francia. This apparently was not against Judith's will, but Charles tried to interfere with the couple's intentions and went as far as to excommunicate Baldwin from the church. Baldwin and Judith decided to appeal to the Pope in Rome. Indeed they were reinstated in the church and on hind site Charles decided to appease the couple by making Baldwin Count of Flanders. Thus we have the first of many counts ruling the area including Bruges. It was during the times of Baldwin the Iron Hand (as he was

We continue our walk along the Begijnenvest until you come to a tower, the 'Poedertoren' or Powder Tower.

As the name implies, it used to be a powder magazine and became part of the defensive line surrounding the city in the Middle-Ages.

At this point you have a choice to go left along the lake you see before you, or cross the little bridge to take a longer stroll around the lake (see 3A below). Either way, take a look on the bridge and enjoy the view of Minnewater, also known as The Lake of Love.

  

also known) that the Vikings plundered the coasts of England, France and the Low Lands. Later, during the 12th to 15th century, it was important to protect the wealth of the city and its people. That was the main reason why we have these defensive mounds; it is believed that they are the remains from those early days. This map, dated 1558, clearly shows the vests and parts of a stone wall surrounding Bruges. It also shows eight gates, some of which still exist but not on this walking tour.

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2. Minnewater

If you elect to take the shorter route, do not cross the little bridge and go along the lake on the west side, your left. Through the trees you can see the lovely lake until you come to the end where you cross the bridge to your right. The brick building is the Sashuis or Sluice House. It dates back to 1895 and houses the controls to regulate the water levels between the Minnewater and the famous canals of Bruges.
 
At the end of the path you make a right hand turn and cross the bridge. On the bridge look to your left where the canals (or "Reien") of Bruges begin. To the right of the bridge we leave Minnewater.
There is a charming legend about Minnewater. Although translated literally, it could be called "the waters of caress", the story is told that it was named after a girl, Minna. We need to go back in time, to the dark ages when Romans conquered Gallia. It was here that two lovers were separated from each other when the young warrior, Stromberg, went to war against the Romans. The girl, Minna promised to wait for his return. During his long lasting absence however, Minna's father gave her in marriage to someone else. On the eve before the marriage, Minna desperately ran away and hid here in the woods. When Stromberg came back, he went looking for Minna. When he found her, she was totally exhausted and she died in his arms. He built a dam in the creek near the tower, let the water drain out and buried Minna in the center. Then he broke the dam and let the water flood into the lake again. Minna remains down there in her beautiful lake. map

3. Alternate route around Minnewater

A bit longer way is to cross the pedestrian bridge near the Poedertoren and go further east along what is now know as the Katelijnevest. After a while you will see a tiny bridge to your left. Cross it and continue along the walking path until you come to a crossing. Go left and head for the small castle at the edge of Minnewater. This is now a family owned restaurant with a nice patio and great French cuisine. But we continue and arrive at the Arsenaalstraat. Take a left and head for the little park at Wijngaardplein.

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4. Wijngaardplein (Vineyard Square)

This is not really a "square" and no longer a vineyard, yet it is a very pretty spot. To your right you see several old houses with some shops, but the main attraction is the green triangle overlooking the water and part of the ancient buildings of the Begijnhof with its little bridge and gate that date back to 1570. We will visit the Begijnhof shortly. Notice the tourists who come here by boat or horse drawn carriages. With swans, trees and a beautiful view, this is a popular and scenic place.

 

 

  
The swans here have a history of their own. When the countess Margaretha of Burgundy passed away in 1482, her husband Maximiliaan, emperor of Austria became the ruler of Flanders. Unlike his beloved wife, he imposed new and strict tax laws on the citizens of Bruges. This almost caused a revolt and led to the execution of his administrator Pieter Lanckhals. When the army of Maximiliaan arrived, they quickly defeated the band of Bruges citizens. Because of the murder they had committed, Maximiliaan imposed one punishment that remains to date. Bruges had to keep swans in the canals as a sign of repentance. You see, the name Lanckhals translates as "long neck" and swans was in the family crest. map

5. The Beguinage (het Begijnhof)

Let's take a few minutes to visit the Beguinage, the area behind the old buildings you see to your left.
Go to the fountain where the horse head spouts water. Turn left, past the restaurant and go back to the canal where you cross the little bridge. This quaint structure was originally built in 1570 and is the main entrance to the Begijnhof.

  
 

Note the date 1776 on the gate. This was an important year for the Americans, the year of their independence.

The oldest remaining houses on this square date from the 15th century. However, the Beguinage, or by its full name, the "Prinselijke Begijnhof van Wijngaerde", was established in 1245. It has been a place of residence for women during the last 750 years and, again, I have some explanations to give you.

  
Who are the Beguines (or in Dutch, the Begijnen)? To understand how these groups of women came to be, we have to go back to the 12th and 13th centuries. It was a time when the crusades and other wars required many men to take up arms; many also were religious monks or priests with vows of celibacy. Hence single women became a majority, but still with little control over their own lives. Particularly women of some nobility could not marry outside their class and had little freedom or purpose in life. Many had no chance for a decent livelihood. So, there was a class of women who wanted to do good, help others but were severely restricted by the rules of society.  About the beginning of the 13th century some of them grouped together, lived in cabins close together with a common bondage and ideals. The community thus formed was to be a Beguinage.
A Beguine was not a nun; she took no vows, could return to city life and wed if she wished and did not give up her property. She could even have servants. If she was poor, she would neither ask nor accept alms, but supported herself by manual labor or by teaching the children of burghers. When she first joined, she lived with "the Grand Mistress" of her community, but afterwards she had her own dwelling. Religious practice was part of life but the Church did not allow them to “preach”. Praying and mysticism were important aspects, yet every Beguinage had their own rules but no common “Ruler”. Some became independent entities with facilities to live a life apart. There might be a meeting hall, a chapel and assignments of certain duties. At night the gate would be closed and men were not allowed to be inside. However, Beguines were influential in providing the populace with help and religious understanding that priests and ministers might not have been able to convey. The people generally liked Beguines. Unfortunately, in modern times there are very few women who still consider themselves to be Beguines. It is a society of the past. map

6. The lace shops of Wijngaardstraat

Return across the little bridge of the Beguinage and turn left onto Wijngaardstraat. In this short street section we can admire the art of making lace. In one of the shops you might see women still practicing the old way of making lace by hand. Notice the numerous little wooden spools of thread they handle, and how lightning fast they continue repeating the design without making a mistake. If you miss this here, there will be other opportunities later to see this fascinating art form. The older generation of women remember how this was a way of living, while a new generation is taking up the art so it does not disappear with new technology. If the price of an item is high, ask if it was originally hand made. It most likely was. There is a good link to see how lace is made.

Making lace (or kant) as we now know it, started in Belgium during the middle ages. In fact, in the sixteenth century Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor and Count of Flanders, made it a requirement that lace making be taught in schools and convents in the Belgian provinces. Lace became very popular with the elite and was used for collars and sleeves for both men and women. Many paintings of the 16th and 17th century depict portraits with fine lace. Most likely it was made here or somewhere in Flanders. The trade flourished and even in the 18th century there were several schools in Bruges that had as many as 2700 students learning the art. When mechanized ways of making lace was introduced, the hand craft diminished and for quite some time we had only a small number of elderly ladies who still made lace by hand. During the last several years, however, lace making has become popular again as a hobby.
There are different ways to make lace, but the Duchess lace is the method used in Bruges. You will see how the ladies use a cushion (carreau in French or kussen in Dutch). A paper pattern is pinned to this and the main threads called conductors are woven back and forth and also pinned in place. Depending on the design, there may be anywhere from 22 to 200 bobbins that are quickly twisted and tumbles around the conductor. For a quick demonstration go to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXbrQ0nuYjE&NR=1. To make a corner piece for a handkerchief, for example, may take up to three days. map

7. Walplein

From the Wijngaardstraat make a left onto Walplein. Notice the little statue of Mother Mary on the brick wall. Mother Mary has always been a patron saint of Bruges and you will meet her more often as you continue.

Towards the end of the street is a little square with its rather modern piece of art. There is also an entrance to the old brewery "Straffe Hendrik".
If it isn't too early for you, go in, have a tour of the old brick factory, learn how they make this special brew and have a sip of their blond or dark ale. But be careful because the alcohol content is more than 8%. 'Straffe' can be translated as 'mean'.

The name that is now used is the Halve Maan (half moon); it is a symbol used on their labels.

To see more details of the brewery click here.

  
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8. The little Stoofstraat and Katelijnestraat

Continue straight and cross the Walstraat. Toward the end you will notice a narrow walkway to your right. Imagine that there used be a gate here. This little Stoofstraat runs along the back side of the "Godhuizen van Spanooghe". Two or three hundred years ago these were the homes for the poor and elderly and they were originally built and maintained by the wealthier citizens of Bruges as a charitable contribution. Typically a row of these houses had a courtyard or garden and was somewhat sheltered from the main streets by means of a gate. Each dwelling had only one room and those who lived here were expected to perform some menial or odd chores for the church or city.

At the end of the Stoofstraat turn left onto Katelijnestraat. To your right you can see the "godhuizen" of the Catholic Convent and to your left the garden of Spanooghe. There are more of these "poor houses" in the city, but they are too far to see on this walk. In fact, some are not open to the public at all. map

9. The museum of Memling

Continue north on Katelijnestraat and cross the canal. This now becomes Mariastraat. From the bridge, to your left, you have an interesting view of the ancient St. Johns hospital. A bit further you come to the former main gate of St. Johns. This is now the entrance to the Memling museum.
 
(Picture courtesy of the Stedelijke Musea Brugge)

Hans Memling was one of the prominent painters of the 15th century. As Bruges rose to be one of the biggest and wealthiest centers of commerce in Europe, artists flocked to the city to learn and paint and trade their works of art. Memling was born in Germany and came to Bruges around 1465 where he followed the footsteps of van Eyck and studied under Rogier van der Weyden. His paintings were predominantly of religious scenes and became collectors items throughout Europe. Many were sold to merchants from Italy, Spain and England. One of his most famous paintings depicting scenes of the Last Judgment now hangs in a museum in Gdansk, Poland. The story goes that this three part painting depicting the gruesome scenes of hell and the revelation of heaven was purchased in Bruges by an agent of the Italian Medici family. During the transit at sea the ship carrying this valuable painting was captured by a privateer from Gdansk, Pauel Benecke. Apparently he took it home and it is now on display in the St. Mary's Church in Gdansk. To see a photo of the painting go to Poland. map


10. The Old St John hospital

As you leave the museum through the front entrance, turn left and you will see a small alley. Go through it and you will discover a nice courtyard with interesting views including the canal and brewery in the distance. The buildings around you are all part of the old St. John's hospital. Most were used as dormitories for the sick and feeble as well as the brothers and sisters who ran the hospital.

The St. Johns hospital was founded in the 12th century by the citizens of Bruges. One document with rules for the hospital is dated 1188. It was one of the first medical schools in Europe but also served as a shelter for travelers, the elderly and homeless. In addition it was an infirmary for the sick and dying, as long as their illness was not contagious. Initially “Sint Jan” was run by a number of men and women who were not directly associated with the Church. But in 1236 the bishop of Tournai insisted that the brothers and sisters at least made vows of obedience, chastity and poverty. Later in the 15th century a bishop Chevrot convinced the members of St. John to become part of the Church and not follow the demands and rules of the magistrates of Bruges.
St. John became a very rich and powerful organization with property throughout the city. New sections were added to the original buildings (some of these are now used as exhibit halls). The brothers and sisters were housed in separate sections, but the overall administration was generally the responsibility of the males whereas the females took care of the sick and kitchen duties. Then in the 17th century St. John became an all female institution.

When you are ready to continue the walk, turn around and, of course, you will notice the tall church steeple across the street. It is the "Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk" which translates to Our Dear Womanchurch, but is better known as Church of Our Lady. It will be our next stop. map

11. Church of Our Lady

This impressive church was started in the 13th century. Additions followed during the next two-hundred years, and, at 400 feet, this became, and still is, the tallest brick church in the world.
After you enter the church, keep right and walk to the end of the transept to see the famous "Madonna with Child". It is a sculpture by Michelangelo from about 1504. Two brothers, Jan and Alexander Mouscron, who were merchants from Bruges, had bought it and donated it to this church in 1514. Their family grave is at the foot of the statue. The masterpiece was stolen twice, once by French revolutionaries around 1794, and then by the Nazis in 1944. Luckily it was recovered undamaged both times.
 
You can leave the church by a side entrance to the north. However, the walking tour will continue as you arrived. map

12. Gruutshusestraat and Guido Gezelle

When you leave the church by the same side entrance, turn to you right and go to the corner of Mariastraat and Gruuthusestraat. Notice the interesting building at the apex of this busy intersection. Turn right onto the tree-lined 'Gruit House Street'. Across the street you can see the statue of Guido Gezelle. He was a writer and poet of the nineteenth century. Since he was a Catholic priest, his works were mostly of a religious nature. He is also noted for his attempts to make Flemish a distinct language, separate from Dutch, the language of the Netherlands.

 
"So what is the difference between Dutch and Flemish?" someone asks. Well there is some difference, but not much. Flemish is really more of a Dutch dialect, and officially Dutch is still considered the main language in the northern parts of Belgium. It is almost like English is the language spoken in the USA, but not 'American'. There are, of course, many words that are spelled and pronounced differently (just like colour and color). And so we have gruut or 'gruit' in Dutch, and huse is 'huis'. Notice the similarity to English for both words. The sound of the Dutch 'ui' is unique and a bit harsh, whereas 'u' is more mellow. Generally speaking, Flemish is a more soothing sounding speech.
Some words in Flemish were derived from French. An examples might be 'frigo' (koelkast in Dutch) for refrigerator in English. Others are carryovers from the old Dutch language. Yet, Dutch visitors can understand the Flemish very well and visa versa. The significance of 'gruut' or gruit will be explained at the next stop. map

13. Gruuthuse

You should now be at the large palace-like building known as Gruuthuse. It is now a museum with a large variety of tools and implements used hundreds of years ago. The building has been restored and can be visited at your leisure. However, you might want to know a bit of the history behind it.
 
During the Middle-Ages the house belonged to the family Van Brugghe-van der Aa. They had had amassed a fortune by having a monopoly on the processing and sale of gruit, an important ingredient for making ale. However, It is not quite clear how these 'Lords of Gruuthuse' were able to have such a unique position, since gruit is simply a mixture of various herbs, most (or all) of which are native to northern Europe including yarrow, bog myrtle and wild rosemary. This was before gruit was replaced with hops during the 15th and 16th century.
During this period there was one member of the family, Lodewijk (Louis) van Gruuthuse (1422-1492) who became an important political figure. He was a Flemish knight who served as courtier for the Duke of Burgundy. Being an ambitious individual with a talent for battle, he provided great support to various rulers and was even awarded the title of Earl of Winchester by Edward IV, King of England in 1472. He was also a collector of illuminated manuscripts, biblical books produced by some of the best Flemish workshops and cloisters.
Nevertheless, what is best remembered from those days is the name and building you now see before you.

Walk between the building and the church towards the backyard. It brings you to a quaint little bridge that crosses the canal. Although this might seem to be an ancient little crossing, the bridge was erected here in 1910. Look to your left where there is another bridge with a beautiful house spanning the water.

The path takes you over to Groeninge, a marvelous park, museum and a place to relax. For those of you who are interested in art visit the Groeninge Museum. The collection in the museum focuses primarily on works by painters who lived and worked in Bruges during the last five centuries.

  
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14. Dijver

Now return to the main street to your left and proceed north along the canal. It is Dijver. Be sure to cross over to the canal side and look back so once in a while to see the magnificent church you just visited. All along here you can see some old and beautiful homes on both sides. Notice how some houses have doorways and docks right at water level. What a perfect way to have boats come by and transport your goods to faraway places. If only you could get close to the sea!
This brings us to the history of the canals and why they were so important to the strategy of Bruges and its reign in European trade during the Middle Ages.

   
To understand the rise of Bruges, we have to talk a bit about the geographical changes that have taken place. Fifteen hundred years ago it is quite possible that Bruges was at the edge of (or at least much closer to) an inlet from the North Sea. Although the coast is protected by a long line of sand dunes, the landscape here is very flat and, since the dikes and levies were not very strong, flooding was a common occurrence. A map from about 1600 shows how the town of Sluis was the harbor at the mouth of the river Reie and a sea inlet called Cnocke Diep. However, Sluis is now about five miles from the ocean. Changes are due to silting of the rivers, flooding during storms and building more dikes by the farmers.
In 1134, a heavy storm broke through the dunes north-west of Bruges and created a new channel. The Zwin, as it was called, opened a way inland and a dam or dike was quickly erected to help create a channel. That was the site of Damme, initially a fishing village. The river Reie connected Bruges to Damme and a trade route for small ships was established. Dredging and digging more canals, however, was a way of life for Bruges, and this continued until the Zwin and Reie also silted close leaving Bruges high and dry. Now the canals are only used by the tourist boats. map

15. Rozenhoedkaai
 
Continue along Dijver, cross Wollestraat and have a look to your left across the water. This is probably the most photographed spot in Bruges. The tower in the distance is the belfry on Markt. You will see that later. There is a nice hotel/restaurant here but it is rather pricey. After all, someone has to pay for the view. Also consider taking a boat ride. This is one of several good spots. There are five family-operated boat companies and they are all equally good. The boats have no cover, otherwise they would not clear some of the bridges such as you saw near Gruuthuse. map

 

16. Huidenvettersplein

The buildings to your right, such as the one with the boat mooring, are actually the backsides of interesting places on the square known as "the square of hide tanners". To see this, walk further along Dijver, then make a left turn. Here you can marvel at the facades of old houses and stop at one of a couple fish restaurants that are well known for great meals.
But in addition, Huidenvettersplein has a great history. It is a place where the guilds of the cattle-hide-tanners had their start. 'Huiden' is a Dutch word for pelts or hides. 'Vetter' is a person who tans those hides So we are now at the square where hide-tanners traded their goods. But there is more to this story than tanning hides.

During the Middle Ages many of the trades including masons, glass makers, and traders of woolen goods had formed guilds or consortiums. They were unions of artisans who, in many cases, had taken an oath to support and help each other when adversaries should interfere with their trades. The concept was more like modern corporations rather than labor unions. Many controlled the labor that did the brunt of the hard work. The guilds (for the gold that became their treasury) were local rather than national institutions, but they had control of who and how their business was conducted.
You want more details? See the link below.
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17. The Fish Market


Go just a bit further north-east around the corner and you will see a square with lots of columns supporting an open market place. This is where fish mongers had their stalls since 1821 and four days a week you will find a few still selling fresh fish in the morning from about 6:00 am until noon or 1:00 pm. The North Sea and tributaries provide most of what you will see including cod, herring, flounder, bass, mackerel, mussels, and even eel and snails.

 

  

Near the canal you will also see a bust of Frank van Acker. He was the first socialist mayor of Bruges and had that position from 1976 until 1992.
However, it was probably his father Achiel van Acker, who was better known for his contributions to the social welfare of the citizens of Bruges. He was born in 1898, son of a poor family of twelve children. He became a member of the city council of Bruges in 1926 and shortly afterwards the Prime Minister of Belgium. The older generations remember him best by his nick name Archiel Charbon (coal in French) because he was somehow able to provide coal to the citizens during the cold winters following WWII. map

18. Blinde Ezelstraat

From the Fish Market cross the bridge to the tall buildings and the little alley to the north. But stop, look across the water and try to imagine what this place would have looked like eight hundred years ago. You are at the edge of the city Brugge, and before you can enter you have to pass through this gate. You can still see the remnants of the large gate hinges in the wall. There was lots of foot traffic and an occasional horse rider. Most goods were transported by boat, so there were only a few wagons drawn by donkeys. One of those must have been blind and perhaps caused enough of a raucous to draw attention, because that is what the street was called "Blind Donkey Street".

 


You are now entering the administrative or civic center of Bruges. As you head for the ornate passage way you are between city hall and the archives.
But let's see more of that at our next stop.

 

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19. Burg

After you pass through the arched gate, you come to "the Burg", the oldest and most central part of the city. This is where the original castle stood more than 1200 years ago. Take in a breath and the scene. The large building to your far right contains city offices and also the tourist information center. Next to your immediate right is a very ornate building called Civiele Griffie (Civic Records). It houses the archives and is part of the city administration. It was originally built between 1534 and 1537 but has been restored as you see it now. To your immediate left is the city hall. It was first constructed here in 1376. Then opposite is the white baroque Proosdij (Provost's House). It used to be the residence of the bishop of Bruges until he was chased out of the city by French revolutionaries in 1794. The building dates from about 1666 and is now occupied by government offices of the West Flanders province.
So you can see that the modern hotel on the square is totally out of place. Indeed. this is where the old cathedral St. Donatius used to stand. It was completely demolished by the supporters of the French invasion in 1794. For more details see section 23.
 
Tucked away in the south-west corner of the square is the Chapel of the Holy Blood. Decorated with an ornate facade, the small basilica can be entered through the gate and steps leading to the first floor above. That is where, behind the silver altar, the relic of the Holy Blood is kept. The small, crystalline vial, supposedly containing drops of Jesus' blood, is shown to the public every Friday and from May third through the seventeenth. That is the time when, on Asuncion Day, the 'Procession of the Holy Blood' takes place and the relic is carried through the streets of Bruges. Many people in the parade dress up in old costumes for the occasion.
  
History, or legend, tells us that the relic was brought from Jerusalem to Bruges by one of the counts of Flanders shortly after the second crusade (1145-1149). The vial with the blood of Jesus has never been opened since that time, but there is some controversy about the origin of the contents. Studies of the bottle indicate that it was made of rock crystal during the 11th or 12th century in Istanbul, Turkey. How did it come to Jerusalem, who put the blood into this vial and how was the blood stored during the prior one thousand years? No one knows. Could modern technology help to shed some light on this, or is it more important to maintain the holiness of this unique relic? map

20. Breidelstraat

Walk to the south-west corner and enter Breidelstraat. You see more shops with textiles and chocolates for you to try. Belgian chocolates are known around the globe and you should try some. Part of the pleasure of eating chocolate is due to the fact that its melting point is slightly below human body temperature; thus it melts in your mouth. Did you know that one study found that melting chocolate in your mouth produced an increase in brain activity and heart rate that was more intense than that associated with passionate kissing. It also lasted four times as long after the activity had ended. So how can you go wrong?
  
Besides lace, Bruges has been a mecca for other textiles including wool and linen. With its fortified city walls and strategic location near the sea ports of Damme and Sluis, trade with England and Scottish wool merchants brought wool weaving to the city. As early as the thirteenth century, the cloth fairs of Bruges were well attended by merchants from far away. This was followed by grain from Normandy, lumber and fur from Scandinavia, and wines from Spain. Records indicate that in 1277 a fleet of ships from Genoa, Italy came to the port of Bruges, thus opening the trade with the Mediterranean. In 1314 a galley from Venice appeared bringing spices and other new products from the East. With all this trade, Bruges also became one of the first major European financial centers and the banking industry had here its principal start. The Bourse opened in 1309 and developed into the most sophisticated money market of the Low Countries during the fourteenth century. The word "bourse" also has some interesting history. Some claim that it originated from the Latin bursa meaning a bag; because the sign of a purse would hang from the house in Bruges where merchants met during the thirteenth century. A more likely origin is that the house where they met belonged to a man call Van Der Burse. map

21. Grote Markt

At the end of Breidelstraat you come to the most popular square in Bruges, the Grote Markt (Big Market).

Here you see grand structures on two sides and some ornate but smaller houses to the north-east.

Of course the most impressive building on the square is the belfry tower. It is not a church (as many think). It is simply a tall place, originally used as a lookout point, a central focus with bells to warn citizens of dangers or other happenings.

You should take the time (and energy) to climb the narrow steps (there are 366 of them) and enjoy the marvelous views of the city all around you. There are red tiled roofs with chimneys galore, narrow streets, little gardens and canals going every direction. The tower is 272 feet high and has a large carillon on top that plays every fifteen minutes. So don't be startled when the bells start ringing as you admire the views. There is also a window where you can see the mechanism that makes all work.

  
The first part of the belfry was built in 1240. This was during the rise of Bruges and textiles were major trading goods. Hence, to either side of the building were halls or market places for cloth storage and sales offices. The original structure had two square towers that you can see. Then around 1482 the octagonal segment was added. It had a wooden spire on top of that, but, after the last fire in 1741, the top was never replaced.

The other impressive building you see is the Provincial Court, a nice place for the offices of the provincial government of Flanders. Enjoy its beauty, but realize these nice offices also have a history that is worth discussing:

This grand house actually replaced a marvelous way to conduct trade in the olden days. During Bruges' hay-days (or textile days, if you please), merchants could use a covered boat house, wharf and cay right at this location. It was an ideal way to unload and trade goods directly from boats to the adjacent market place. With the decline of boat traffic the building was torn down in 1787 and later replaced with the Provincial Court.

  

  There are still some market stalls on the square but what a busy, noisy market place it must have been two hundred years ago !
By now you may be a bit tired and, if you didn't have a bite at any of the previous restaurants, notice some hunger pains. Notice the old, but smaller houses to the north of the square. There you will find numerous restaurants with great food, beer and a comfortable table while you watch and enjoy the antics of the other tourists on the square.
Take your time, have a Belgian beer, but be sure to try some local specialties such as smoked eel and mussels steamed in Riesling wine with french fries. The food in Bruges is delectable, hearty and good for the soul. map

22. Steenstraat

If you want to return to the train station from here you can continue the walk as described below or take a bus or taxi. It is suggested that you ask someone here for the best way if you are pressed for time or too exhausted from our long walk.
If, however, you need to shop some more and want to walk back, take Steenstraat, the street at the south-west corner of the Markt. You will find many interesting shops along the way. A ways down the street is a modern mall called Zilverpand. There are several boutique style shops, some restaurants and other places of interest. map

 

23. St. Salvador

Before you arrive at the Zilverpand mall, you will come to the second most important church in old town Bruges. This unusual looking church is actually a cathedral and the seat of the bishop of Bruges. Inside you will find some beautiful tapestries and other art treasures that are part of the remaining collection that once adorned the St. Donatius cathedral on the Burg. It was the French invasion in 1794 and French sympathizers who were responsible for the change.

Notice the gothic structures next to the ancient stone walls. They were the result of additions made after 1834.

  
 

The church was founded in the tenth century and for the next eight hundred years would be a parish church. In 1794 the French army invaded the Low Countries and Bruges became under their rules. French inhabitants then destroyed the old cathedral St. Donatius which had been on the Burg opposite the town hall. The bishop was displaced and, until the French were defeated at Waterloo. the city had no cathedral. Then in 1834, a few years after Belgium gained its independence from the Netherlands, a new bishop was installed for Bruges. He chose St. Salvator as his residence but also wanted to enlarge the church. It needed a taller tower and interior upgrades. It was a British architect, William Chantrell, who decided to add the top structure on the original square stone base. His two sets of castle like turrets on the corners created quite a stir and a radical departure from the gothic style so dominant in the city. Especially since it included a flat top. That was quickly changed by adding the small pointed top you can see today. Would it have been better to add a taller spire such as the one on Our Lady Church?
Return to the Burg. map

24. Zand
At the end of the Steenstraat you arrive at a large square called 't Zand. Here you will find a large fountain and the modern Concertgebouw, or Music Hall. It is a convention center and theatre all in one. Periodic exhibits as well as music festivals are common occurrences throughout the year.
By the way, the apostrophe t ('t) is a Dutch abbreviation that stands for 'the'.
  
Looking at this modern building, you would never think that this was the site of the first railroad station for Bruges. It was 1838 when a rail line between Gent and Bruges ended here. Actually it was not until 1844 when the first station was built. However, because of its small size and new rail lines coming into service, the building was torn down in 1879 and moved to the town of Ronse where it is now a nationally preserved monument. The new station was completed in 1886. It had a large hall built of steel and glass panels, but again served Bruges for only thirteen years when it was decided to move the central station to its present location. In a way it's too bad that the second station was torn down. It would be another historic building in Bruges. map
 

25. King Albert Park
After the second station was demolished and the tracks became useless, there were questions about what to do with the area between 't Zand and the new depot further south. Some suggested a new pedestrian walkway with shops and other commercial developments. But the best acceptable one involved an open area with plants and trees, thus a park. This was started in 1949 with labor from the local people who were unemployed after the war, and it took about four years to complete. In 1954 a monument honoring King Albert was inaugurated. Thus the name King Albert Park.
  
Hopefully you are not too tired from the long walk while carrying souvenirs and chocolates. So, as they say in Flemish or Dutch: "Tot ziens" map

Note:

This web page and the suggested walk is for your enjoyment only. It was created for those of you who like to walk and explore places on your own. It is based on the web site of Pieter Blommaert, but has been expanded to provide more details about the history of various locations. Some of the pictures were taken by others as noted below. So, please, use the information freely, but give credit where it is due.
So how long does the walk take? A jogger might do it in thirty minutes, a walker in a few hours, but if you want to see all of the attractions, including museums, you could spend a couple days. If you do spend some time here, you will find many additional interesting places; more than what can be described on this web site. Return to the top

Links:

Several of the photos above were taken by Mike Has. Thanks for sharing Mike. More of his great shots can be found at http://www.worldisround.com/articles/331855/photo5.html Return to the Walk

Some were the courtesy of FreeFoto.com. They are marked with an asterisk.

A few short clips of lace making can best be seen in motion. Go to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXbrQ0nuYjE&NR=1
Return to Wijngaardstraat

For those interested in details about the brewery Halve Maan, see http://www.halvemaan.be/e/default.htm
Return to Walplein

General information about Bruges can be found at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bruges#Municipal_museums
Wikipedia provides more details about guilds at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guilds#European_history
Return to Huidenvettersplein

The basis for this web site came from the following: http://users.compaqnet.be/Pieter.Blommaert/WandelingBrugge.html

To see more photos and descriptions of our various trips to Europe click here.



I have added the map below for those who arrive at Zeebrugge by ferry or cruise ship. Cruise ships smaller than 180 meters (590 feet) usually dock at pier 35. Ships longer than 180 meters dock at pier 24.

Those who are interested in taking the train to Brugge (and if no shuttle service is provided by the cruise ship) can do so from the station Zeebrugge-Dorp, the village station. However, during the months of July and August (2008) the train departs from the Strand station as shown on the map. It is about a 0.7 mile walk from the normal dock to the Strand Station. Information about train schedules to and fro Bruges (Brugge) can be found at the web site of the Belgian railway system: http://www.b-rail.be/main/E/



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