Additional Features -- Part 2

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Crown Molding

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Let me introduce a few additional ways you can enhance or make the crown molding installation a little easier. Click to the right for the section you are interested in:		Splices Corner Variations Avoiding Obstructions Transitions Curved Walls

There are numerous ways that the installation of crown molding can be modified. Some of these can be done to enhance the appearance, others because of some obstacle that has to be overcome. This section will present some; however, you may come up with many more solutions. That is part of the fun about designing with crown molding.

1. Returns (or ending the crown)

When crown molding has to come to a stop because of some obstruction, a stairwell (or for some other reason), a "return" is made. This term refers to a small triangular piece that fits at the end of the crown like a cap. It closes off the open end. The same molding is used. Here are two basic types:

Make a right turn back to the wall:

This means that the molding is cut as if it encountered an outside corner. The joint is a standard Type A-1, but the small end cap is cut straight to meet the wall. Cut the "outside corner" joint first. Then make the straight cut so the triangular part will meet the wall. For safety reasons, start with a piece that is at least ten inches long.
Note: be sure to subtract the width of the molding (in profile) from the long run so that the end cap stops at or before the obstruction. See below.

Make a turn up the wall:

Instead of making a return that goes back to the wall, try a different approach. If you have the molding going upwards, it will create a more visible and (in my opinion) a more pleasant effect.

The following pictures give you some ideas. Note the second one uses 45º segments.

Notice here that the Colonial crown molding was mounted "up-side-down". The owner did not want molding to go down the hallway to the left. Hence the two part return.

2. Splices

When walls are longer than sixteen feet it will be necessary to splice the molding. However, don't simply butt two sections tofwther and hope some filler or caulk will hide the seam. It will come apart in time and show an ungly gap. use a scarf joint.
Cut both parts with a 45 degree bevel and glue the piaces together. You can also include a narrow piece of plywood along the flat back for additional support.

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3. Outside Corner Variations:

The usual way to go around a right angle, outside corner, is to make a 270 degree turn. It is possible to break this up by using more segments. For example, you could insert a piece that breaks up the sharp angle to a more pleasing transition. I have used this technique at the end of a soffit with kitchen cabinets below and a wall separating the dining room and entry hall.

This technique is especially good for walls that have rounded corners. In that case make the corner piece wider and stop the straight run short. The amount depends on the corner radius. Use more segments (and smaller cutting angles) for very large radii. Be extra careful with your measurements and cuts because these corners will be noticed by everyone who visits your home.

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4. Avoiding Obstructions:

When the wall has a feature that would interfere with the crown molding, stop it or go around it. For example, when a duct opening is near the ceiling, it should not be covered by the molding. In that case design a one or two inch "box" to go around the grill. I have also used this technique to go around a mirrored closet door that went up to the ceiling. Notice in the pictures below that one has an extra piece of baseboard while the third had a vent right near an inside corner. For a grill that is in the ceiling close near the wall, you can stop the molding as shown.

This is one case where coping comes in handy. The three sided "box" can be made in the shop or on your workbench. Make sure the outside corners are nice and neat and leave the ends of the two side straight against the wall. Mount the unit first, nailing it to the wall studs that are usually on either side of the vent. Then measure the wall on both sides and cope the inside corners of those pieces so they mate with the "box".

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5. Transitions:

Occasionally you may encounter a transition from one kind of crown molding to another type of molding. In some kitchens, for example, the cabinets that go up to the ceiling may be finished with a stained crown while the rest of the room is to be done with painted crown. This can lead to some awkward situations and it will call on your ingenuity to solve them.
The photos below show how I installed crown that had painted crown around the bed-room but stained oak above the bed. The oak trim around the mirror was extended so that a small valence could be added. Then a block was included at both ends with some crown finishing touches. The painted crown stopped against the wooden block as shown in the close-up.

Before		After

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6. Curved walls:

If your rooms have walls with large curvatures but a flat ceiling it is possible to use a special urethane crown made so it can be bent. For details I suggest you go to the following web-site: www.ultraflexmoulding.com
Be sure that the type you select will match the rest of your standard shapes.