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It is an easy day trip from Barcelona to see this unique monastery and associated facilities built against a mountain side full of sandstone peaks and green shrubs. We had bought a special discount ticket in Barcelona that was good for the Metro, train and gondola to the top (round trip). So, we start our trip. From our hotel we walk to Placa Catalunya, board the Metro to Placa Espanya where we have to wait a few minutes for the train to Montserrat..

After about an hour and numerous stops at small towns, we see the steep ridge with rugged peaks in the distance. The first stop of Montserrat train is at Aeri where the cable car station is located. There is a second stop for those who prefer to take a cock train to the top. But the cable car is faster and more scenic. When we get off the train there are a few people with tickets for the rack train but they are told that they have to wait for the next train to continue one more station. The gondola takes us across the river and quickly to the top.

A funicular ascends the steep rock face to the ridge above. Although we are only 2400 feet above sea level, it seems higher because of the sudden rise and jagged peaks. The complex consists of several buildings including a hotel, several shops, a museum and, of course, the sanctuary.
Looking up we see the natural rock formations and the ugly facade of tall buildings. Even Caudy would have done a better job to blend the structures with the environment. Behind the five arched openings is the plaza. So, after a stop at the information desk, we climb a series of steps.

To the right is the church and to our left is a museum where we briefly toured a special exhibit of sketches and religious paintings by the artist Josep Obiols. Then we enter the vestibule of the monastery and church.

		The walls are decorated with a number of statues and frescos depicting the various leaders of the monastery and pilgrimages that have taken place here. The first hermit monks had huts in this area as early as 900 AD. Now it is a Benedictine site. The few remaining monks wear robes with rope belts that have three knots symbolizing poverty, chastity and obedience. We continue into the basilica and notice the stone relief with Jesus and the twelve apostles. The dark doors lead us into the church itself.

The walls are decorated with a number of statues and frescos depicting the various leaders of the monastery and pilgrimages that have taken place here. The first hermit monks had huts in this area as early as 900 AD. Now it is a Benedictine site. The few remaining monks wear robes with rope belts that have three knots symbolizing poverty, chastity and obedience. We continue into the basilica and notice the stone relief with Jesus and the twelve apostles. The dark doors lead us into the church itself.

Besides the ornate gilded decorations, the most unique part of the church is the special knave high above the altar. This is where the statue of the black Madonna is located. But we see people up there while the church service is in progress!! So we decide to join a long line of people who want to have a close encounter with the Madonna at this special shrine.

The line starts in the courtyard and follows the knaves of the church along the right wall. As we slowly move towards the front we see several statues and mosaics of saints. Then we hear the voices of numerous boys singing hymns. These are the fellows of the Montserrat Escolania, the choir boys who live and study at the monastery. They sing for only ten minutes while the church is packed with visitors.

All of a sudden the line climbs a narrow set of steps and we have our first glance at La Moreneta, the Black Virgin. She and the Jesus child are behind a protective panel but a cut-out exposes the royal orb she cradles in her right hand. Several people ahead of us touch this, some kiss it. Whereas Saint George is the patron saint of Catalunya, this special statue has been the symbol and the patroness of this region for centuries.

For details and history click here.

		As we turn around, we look down upon the congregation. The choir boys have stopped singing and the crowd has left. A monk still conducts a sermon to the few remaining souls. My hand shakes as I take this picture.

As we turn around, we look down upon the congregation. The choir boys have stopped singing and the crowd has left. A monk still conducts a sermon to the few remaining souls.
My hand shakes as I take this picture.

We descend the stairs to the left and exit the church into an alley with several rows of candles in a carved section of the mountain side. Sharon buys a candle and lights it with memories of dear departed.

As we exit the sanctuary, we hear music and see a large circle of dancers doing the national dance of the Sardana. Young, old they all join as the band plays the ritual music on the steps above.

After lunch at the large cafeteria we decide to go back on the gondola. We could have spent more time hiking the trails or taken the Sant Joan funicular to the top, but we want to go back to Barcelona for some more exploring of that city. As we descend we notice the windy road that leads to the top, the highway, the river and the train tracks below.
Some words of caution as you wait for the train. There is only one track at this point so be sure you take the train that goes the right direction!

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